CD tips Advice

Cosmetics • Lipstick • Beard Cover
Eyeliner • Nail Polish

Tips on Cosmetic Products

I was speaking to my mother the other day, who happens to be 70 years old. I am not sure her age is germane to the story, but what she said to me lends itself to my tips list. What she said is: "Have you forgotten everything I taught you!" Of course the subject matter was not cosmetic's, however, much more surreal. I was riding my bike around the old neighborhood and wearing a dress. This caused my mother to go ballistic and to spew her old fashioned habits and my lack of practice of her preaching. I ask, does it matter if you wear a dress when riding a bike or is it just important to where make-up when wearing a dress and riding your bike? Food for thought, I keep thinking I am never turning 70, especially if this is what is what is on the minds of 70 year old's. What, oh what am I going to be saying to my children? Oh, I know, just be sure your lips, cheeks, fingernails and toe nails match.

So, this month I am going to discuss the necessity of not forgetting what we have been taught. And what is it that we may have forgotten that is so crucial to understanding our existence as transgendered people?: Know your tools, implements and their use's. With the cosmetic line I carry - Sebastian's Trucco, it took me just a short while to discover the wonders of time management and all of the benefits therein. The hardest thing to get over when trying to fight old habits and indolence, is the commitment to learn what each and every product will do and how to take advantage of this knowledge. After the commitment is secured, one must find the time, which is the second most difficult obstacle to overcome in this journey of success.

With the two fore mentioned, and just a little will, you are already 55% of the way to the knowledge of product and looking the way you have only dreamed of. Now, the only way you are going to know what a product will do is to:

Once you know what tools you need to work with, you are on your way to a better understanding of what it is to become a "real woman."

Let us begin with foundations and the difference between types.
There are several different types: Liquid, Cream, Stick and Cake, Compact Powder, Non-Oily.

I should stress one more time the beauty in knowledge of knowing your products. I can not think of a better time to say pay attention.

Brushes, what they do and why, are the questions to be ask and answered. I can not stress enough how important it is to understand what each and every brush will do as well as how to interchange their uses. Each brush serves a specific purpose. In most cases their use will be printed on the stem of the brush, such as a translucent brush will say powder. An eyeshadow will say the same and etc. Also, with brushes the most expensive are the ones you want to purchase. Sable hair are the finest as the softer the bristle the smoother the application. What sable brushes also offer is the cut of the hairs; the best is one that is cut into layers, which offers more control cutting down on your blending time.

There are a few extra that need to be discussed for their charms, virtues and time saving factors. They are as follows:

I realize that my mothers words have little to meaning to those of you who are reading this, but if you would just trust me to know that Mother is always right. So, please do not forget what it is you have been taught, especially when referring to cosmetic application. However, when riding a bike, you can where a dress if you choose to.

This is CDtips asking for your questions, so we can all get the right answers. Love, Lynda

Send your questions to CDtips@aol.com.
The most frequently asked questions will be answered here on the website.

Colorstay lipsticks - do they really work?

And while we're at it, how about those lipstick sealers?

It seems no matter where you go or what you tune into these days, the market is saturated with cosmetic advertising. Someone figured out a way of playing on the vanity of human nature and is making billions and billions of dollars. In fact, there is a statistic that states that in times of recession and depression there are three products that people will purchase no matter how little money they have: alcohol, tobacco and cosmetics. Advertisers from the television to convenience stores understand one thing; woman want to look beautiful. They also know that most women have a price point, a high dollar value to which they can spend.

Which brings me to the question: If you had only one purchase of a vanity product what would it be? I am sure most of you would say lipstick. Your reasons are as good as anyone's and like most, mine is the same. Lipstick is an inexpensive way to light up my face and add emphasis to my strongest feature of full lips. Also, I'll bet lipstick was one of the first "grab and buy" purchases many crossdressers made.

The great thing about lipstick is you do not really have to know a lot about cosmetics and the dynamics of applications. All you have to do is pucker up your lips and move your finger from side to side and you have instant beauty. Most brands are priced and respond just the way people like it -- cheap, fast and satisfying.

Recently, I found myself watching Cindy Crawford in her Revlon ad on prime time television. She claims her product Revlon ColorStay Lipcolor will not smudge off when eating or kissing and would remain until the end of the day or whenever you decided to remove it. I must admit my curiosity got the best of me. Which started a chain reaction ranging from curiosity to obsession to frustration in finding the perfect lipcolor.

The lipsticks used for this review were Sebastian Trucco ( my personal line), M.A.C., Princess Marcella Borghese, Cover Girl Remarkable, Clinique, L'Oreal Colour Long Wearing, Artmatic, and Maybelline Moisture Whip. Prices ranged from $1 to $20. The object was to discover if the manufacturer's claims about long-wearing, non-feathering lipcolor were true.

I went to my local drug store and purchased Ms. Cindy's Colorstay which cost $7.40. It lasted longer than most of the brands I tested, had a matte finish, and went on easy. It did, however, feather or bleed into the fine lines of the upper and lower lips but more importantly, it dried the lips so much that when it was removed you felt like you had been out in the blazing sun for forty days and nights without suncreen. Also, just as important for a crossdresser, it stained, making it hard to remove all trace of color. Also, it did not go on smoothly and it bunched up, especially when blotting the lips, which is one pleasure of wearing lipstick: puckering.

Though I would love to say my brand Trucco ($11) had every property, plus a low price point, I cannot. However, it did possess the all the important qualities I look for when choosing a lipcolor: moist, opaque and non-feathering, easy application, easy removal and a great color selection. They do not offer a long wearing product which, if you ask me, is a blessing.

As a matter of fact no one brand had all the properties mentioned, and two had none of them -- M.A.C ($13) and Clinique ($10.50). Though these are two well known and popular brands; they were lacking in everything but color choice. However, if one must be fair, they did go on easy and removed easily.

The Artmatic Lipstick ($1), did not retract back into the canister properly, which caused the lid to squash the color into the lid. Even though it was the least expensive, it was a waste of money. Though it did not bleed, it was not opaque or apply easily. It was longer wearing and non-feathering, but drying.

Maybelline ($4) and Cover Girl ($4.50) may not be long wearing but they did pass the tests for moisture, opaqueness, easy application and blot resistance. Maybelline also came in a gloss and was easily removed. The most expensive brand Princess Marcella Borghese ($20) may have a prestigious name and high price point, but besides easy application and blot resistance, it felt heavy on the lips, which I am not sure is a good thing. Heaviness does not mean longer-wearing. However, let me add a plus, the manufacture offers a good color selection, which seems to be what they spend their R&D money on. By the way, Borghese is made by Revlon.

If your preference is to wear stay-longer lipcolor brands such a Colorstay, Artmatic, Maybelline, Cover Girl, or L'Oreal, you might experience extreme drying of the lips. The cure is to use a lip balm at least 15-20 minutes before application of lipcolor, which will add moisture to your lips. Also, be very careful not to get ANY of these products on your clothing....it is nearly impossible to get these long-wearing products types out of fabrics, especially my two worst enemies: POLLY AND ESTER. Natural fabrics still held onto a hint of the stain, but, for my money, spend your dollars on a moisturizing lipstick that will remove when you want to and will not ruin your clothing.

This brings me to one of my basic rules of make-up application -- TIME. The first rule of the CDTips method of make-up application is: give yourself enough time to let the beauty in before you walk out the door. Because as we all know, natural beauty takes time.

So, name brand and cost are not always what really matters. What does matter is: does your lipstick match your fingernail polish, which blends with your hair and skin tone, that makes your face light up and lets your personality shine through? That is what I call important.

The other product that fascinated me is lipstick sealer. My final word on this subject is forget about them. No matter the cost, "Sealed with a Kiss" at $4.00 or "Kiss Lipstick Sealer" at $12.00, the only thing they accomplished was to dry out your lips. So, combine a sealer with a long lasting lipstick and your lips should blow away in wind like desert sand. The fixative's primary ingredient is alcohol, even though the manufacture claims it works when applied over lipstick and will not bleed the color. It is my contention that whether it is rolled on from the tube or brushed on from the bottle. Once you move your lips, the product cracks, a result of the alcohol. Also, you cannot reapply the lipstick over the "sealer" if it begins to wear. It causes caking, splitting and bleeding. Now, lips that you cannot enjoy, kiss or freshen up are for beauty contest.....not beautiful lips for beautiful woman.

The moral of this story is follow your lips to your favorite sales clerk and ask for a moisture wear lipstick that matches your fingernail and toenail polish and accents your outfit for the evening. Remembering to take the tube with you so you can reapply as needed. This is CDTips asking for your questions, so we can all get the right answers.

This is CDtips asking for your questions, so we can all get the right answers. Love, Lynda

Send your questions to CDtips@aol.com.
The most frequently asked questions will be answered here on the website.

Beard Cover - Part 1

When someone who is not involved with the transgendered community discovers what it is I do for a living, they invariably ask how I got involved with owning and operating a crossdressing service. When someone within the community asks a question, it usually is: How do I cover my beard? Several of you last month asked this question. I cannot begin to answer it unless I start from the beginning.

In simple terms, I can tell you what products to buy, what I think of each, and if they really work. However, if you're going to learn the proper way to cover your beard, get longer lasting wear out of your make-up, and easier removal of products from your skin, you must listen to what I say; more importantly Practice what I say.

Here is what you have all waited for in great anticipation... as if there is a magic wand, a secret code, or potion you have to drink in order to understand the application of make-up. Ready? There is no magic. You can't wave a wand, drink it in a cola, or wish upon a star. If you really want to learn how to apply make-up, cover your beards and be passable. Here is what you must do:

Let me leave you with these thoughts. Anyone that passes through the doors of CDtips, does so only by beginning each session with CLEANSING, TONING and MOISTURIZING. Anyone that has been to see me can testify this is true. Anyone interested in learning how to create a more believable feminine image... just call. Look at my picture at the top of this page. I have been doing CTM since my early 20's and I am 36. Now, how many thought I was 36?

Bet you're still wondering, "Okay, what about beard cover?" Well... Oops! Out of time and space. We'll cover beards next time. Promise!

This is CDtips asking for your questions, so we can all get the right answers. Love, Lynda

Send your questions to CDtips@aol.com.
The most frequently asked questions will be answered here on the website.

Beard Cover-Part 2

Well, enough of my procrastinating -- here it is, the scoop on BEARD COVER.

What is a beard cover? It is a foundation designed to neutralize or cover the shadow of a beard. It works best as a layer from basic skin, to beard cover, to foundation, to translucent powder. Layer building is an art that can create a passable foundation and a perfected female appearance when done properly.

How does beard cover work? In order to understand how it works, you must have an understanding of the color wheel and the primary colors: Red, Blue and Yellow and their complements. Orange, is the complement of Blue and is said to reduce (or cancel) Blue tones. Beard shadow is blue toned. So in neutralizing the bluish tint of a beard shadow, you will need an orange-based product.

I've heard it said that orange lipstick used under a foundation will cover the beard. This is correct. However, lipstick is made of wax, pigment and other ingredients. As such it isn't well suited to the layering I spoke about earlier to build up and cover, but it does neutralize the blue shadow. It will work, but the real need of beard concealment is product endurance. Lipstick just does not have staying power.

The product I use with my cleints is a professional beard cover. It is made from much the same ingredients as a regular foundation with one major difference -- the key ingredient is a blue neutralizing agent that reduces the shadow. The consistency is that of a pancake foundation, but has enough wax to make it easy to apply with a damp sponge. You choose the color of product to match your complexion and choosing a lighter color will always be better than going darker. Most beard covers are based on light, medium or dark skin tones.

My application formula is derived from a knowledge of basic skin care and the product itself. Adding a treatment of basic skin care to your daily regiment in both masculine and feminine roles will give you a more natural finish and a more youthful appearance. To Cleanse, Tone and Moisturize (CTM as I told you last month) twice daily is the key to achieving flawless skin.

How does a beard cover work with a moisturizer? Well, it works in conjunction with the natural oil in your skin to serve as a protective layer against harmful pollutants such as the wind, sun, free-floating dirt and routine neglect. If you do not use a moisturizer, the cover will more than likely lay on the top of the skin and look blotchy, dry and clumpy, and amateurish. I am sure you have seen this bad technique on others and if you are honest you will admit you have experienced it as well. A bad make-up job ranks up there as one of the 7 most deadly sins and ignorance is not forgiven easily by your peers.

One tip for good coverage is translucent powder. The beard cover-up is sealed with a translucent powder or any talc-based powder applied with a brush or puff. The powder seals and renders the layer almost waterproof, reducing any shine, leaving it smooth and matte. In fact, DERMABLEND sells a powder which claims to do just that, waterproof the foundation. I've used many different manufacture's powders and the best results were had when I matched the color properly, regardless of brand. However, and this is for certain, powder is an absolute necessity for the passable appearance.

This is CDtips asking for your questions, so we can all get the right answers. Love, Lynda

Send your questions to CDtips@aol.com.
The most frequently asked questions will be answered here on the website.

Eyeliner

Well, my last column seemed to be a hit. Thanks to everyone who responded! Here's the question I picked for this month's column.

A reader writes "This week you scored a double winner. An especially good TGForum, in particular the articles on the G/L/B connection and the Lipstick comparisons by Ms. Tips. I suggested that Ms Tips try an article on eyeliner, one of my pet peeves is soft liner."

Now, eyeliner is one of those things you need to demonstrate -- not try to explain. But, as a woman with an modicum of intellect, I will try to explain, in detail, my thoughts on eyeliners, so everyone can use it with ease and not be afraid to try it.

There are two different types of eyeliners: liquid and pencil. Applying liquid eyeliner is a practiced art -- one continuous motion from corner to corner. It is done with a steady hand and one quick, but firm motion. You dip the brush in the liner and clean off the excess on the tube, a tissue or the back of your hand. Then taking the brush from the outer corner of the eye, as close to the lash line as possible, using a continuous motion, sweep to the inner corner of the eye. If you lift the brush it takes an act of God to achieve a straight and even line. The liquid liner is applied as a finishing and defining touch and an accent to eyeshadow. It is applied after the eyeshadow, translucent powder and before the mascara. The thickness of the line depends on the part of the brush used. For a heavy line use the entire length of the bristles or the fullest of the brush. For a thin line use only the tip of the brush. Also, remember to allow the liner to dry before applying the mascara. Line the lower lid in the same manner.

Pencil is much easier to control, and it is my liner of choice. It is used in conjunction with small bristled brush such as the eyeliner brush in Sebastian's Trucco (my cosmetic line) cosmetic brush line. After you have applied your foundation, correction cover up and translucent powder, take the eyeliner pencil and beginning at the outer corner of the eye make a dotted or small stroked line as close to the hairline of the lashes as possible. The closer the line, the fuller the lashes will appear and the less eyeshadow you will use. After you have drawn your line from corner to center, take the eyeliner brush and with a firm feathering or fanning stroke from side to side, pull the color along and soften the line to "smoke". You want to define the eye, but not draw too much attention to it. You want the eye to be inviting and mysterious not harsh and sophomoric in its application.

Now, you may be asking which manufacturer's product should I purchase. Any one will do. Understand that most department store brands, as opposed to drug store brands, have more nutrients and conditioners to make the product last longer, as well as condition the eye area. So, you see, spending a little more on quality product will save you money in the long run.

When you have a liner that is too soft to make a steady, clean line, then I suggest you purchase a eyeliner brush and use it instead of the pencil directly on the eye. It is less hassle, cleaner and is better than trying to perfect the art of using a soft product with inexperienced hands. One last "tip," if you are having a problem with getting a smooth liner application, then, I suggest two aids:

Now, for those that need a little instruction or help with color coordination. One should choose a color of eyeliner based on eye color and eyeshadow color. If one has brown eye's almost any hue of color powders can be used: plums, greens, blacks, greys. If you have green eyes it is best to use any color other than green. If blue any color other than blue.

However using earth tones will always make the eyes sparkle. When using eyeliner you should choose a color that would smoke the eyes, such as a brown eye using a brown liner and brown mascara, however, if you are using a black color powder then a black liner and black mascara would suit the color coordination. However, in using plums, violets or greens, it is best not to use a color coordinated pencil or mascara. Use a pencil the color of the lashes, either a brown or a black and sometimes a grey with black. The idea is to make the eye look soft. After all, we want someone to like us for our sparkling personality, not the way our eyes sparkle. RIGHT?

An Extra TIP:

For Shawn/Brittany: My suggestion is to determine if the relationship you have rekindled is worth honesty or not. Is it is going somewhere other than the bedroom this time? If, so, then you need to take an inventory of yourself, your virtues and attributes as well as your failures and faults, writing them down and realizing that a partner in life needs and deserves to know all of you, not just parts of you. Telling someone about your transgenderism is never easy, but honesty is always the best policy. I for one would rather hurt someone honestly, than mislead them with a lie.

After all, being transgendered is a small part of who you are, not just who you are. If the relationship is to move forward, she will either come to terms with it or it will end. Either way, both of you will be better for the truth. If you decide bed is all you are seeking, then tell her your legs are smooth because: 1) you're a long distance swimming; 2) your hair follicles are infected; 3) your "old" girlfriend liked you smooth for intimate showers; or 4) you recently had laser surgery on both legs. Any or all will do, if you choose to take this route. Good Luck!!!

This is CDtips asking for your questions, so we can all get the right answers. Love, Lynda

Send your questions to CDtips@aol.com.
The most frequently asked questions will be answered here on the website.

Nail Polish

If I told you that people have been applying methods of body adornment for 1,000's of years, would you believe me? Well, it is absolutely true, so let me put some perspective on this situation by saying that belly piercing has been in and out of fashion forever or at least since Cleopatra realized it turned Mark Anthony on. No, I am not going to give the pro's and con's of such nonsense, but I am going to surprise you with the testing and comparison of a Chinese art that has been around since 3000 B.C.. What you ask? Well, nail lacquers or as we call it nail polish is the topic and the testing for this months installment. The hardest part of testing finger nail polish is: finding the time to apply every four days a new polish. The color experimented with RED, of course. The manufactures were department store brands as well as drug store of home sells, such as, Avon - Color Last, Revlon - Creme nail enamel, Estee Lauder - Perfect Finsih, Cutex - Color Quick, Cover Girl, NailSlicks. Wet n Wild, Chanel - Creme enamel, and Maybelline, Long Wearing Nail Color.

You can find nail products in the most unlikely places, once while on a trip home to western PA to see the family. I stopped off at ride side diner. In the ladies lounge, in a vending machine, there were for sale glue on "nail jewels". I did not see the nail polish and thought this rather curious, but we are talking western PA here. I think most situation in this area are missing a few links, but that is another story for another time.

What I look for in a nail polish is probably no different then what you should be looking for that is the following: does it go on smoothly and evenly, does it provide good coverage in two coats or less. The biggest concern of most is, how long will it take to dry and how long will it last without chipping?

In regards to drying time I placed on a piece card board a layer of each product and tested how long it took each to dry. Cutex Color Quick did dry first, keeping in tow with its claim: It was completely dry in four minutes. The slowest in drying time was was the most expensive brand: Chanel, Wet n Wild and Maybelline all took about 8 minutes. The trick to nail polish is something I have been trying to stress throughout my articles in TGF Forum. That is time is the proving factor in all conditions of beautification. So, with nails it is deemed just as important or more so crucial in drying nails. You must let at least 5 minutes laps in between applications - this includes the base and top coat applications.

This brings up a good point. Are base and top coats necessary? I would venture to say if you took a poll and ask how many woman in the private as well as professional sector use a base and top coat. You would find that the majority rules. Most of us sandwich a layer of a base coat on the nail as preparation, which is to help the color stick to the nail and the top coat provides shine and extra layer of hard enamel to strengthen the nail. I must admit that when using a base coat provides an easy application of the product. It goes on much smoother with the base coat, then it does alone. Cover Girl polish purports to have a build in top coat thus saving you time, but the shine just did not hold up after the product dried completely.

You are probably asking yourself. Well, there Ms. Tips, how do I get solon nails at home? Here are some methods that may make your finger fun more enjoyable:

Shape your nails with an emery board. The trick is not to file the nails down on the their sides, but to shape in a square fashion. This helps strengthen and a poorly filed nail will be weakened. File from the sides of the nail to the center in one motion as opposed to the see saw method which can cause the nail to peel. This is the number one problem with weak nails - poor filing. If your nails do peel, you need to buff out the ridges before applying the polish.

You need to wash your hands right before the manicure. This will eliminate all surface dirt and excess oils. If it is necessary, please use a nail brush.

The bottle of polish always needs to be shaken. But you do not just shake the bottle, you roll it between both hands, as if you were washing them with soap and water. This method eliminates air bubbles, which can devastate all of your efforts.

The proper way to apply color to the nail is as follows: You use three strokes: one down the center of the nail and then left to right of each side.The thinner the application, the faster the drying time.

If your polish is too thick to begin with, you need to purchase a nail thinner....DO NOT USE NAIL POLISH REMOVER. Begin with a small amount in an eye dropper and roll to the desired consistency.

To reduce any nail faux pas, you should allow each coat to be dry to the touch before the next coat. It is imperative that the nail be completely dry before you do anything...and that includes touching your hair, scratching your nose or pulling up a sagging stocking. All your hard work will be ruined in a split second without practicing the rules.

You can dry your nails mush faster with a hand held dryer, bought in any local drug store, for a minimal price. You can use a standard hair blow dryer, but the setting must be placed on cool and low. If you use a high speed or too hot, it will blow the polish off the nail, creating a wave effect and the heat will melt the polish. The market sales many nail drying aids, from sprays to UV lights, (which I personally use) to hand held mini fans.

Despite all these tips the most important to implement is use your drying method between coats of polish, not to wait until all coats are apply.

If your manicure is looking tired and dull after a few days, then, apply one color coat, wait until dry and apply another top coat for shine. If your nail is chipped, buff, do not file (an emery board will be too rough) the nail until the surface is flush with the nail. Here is a quick tip....use the friction strip of a match book in desperate times....it is less abrasive than an emery board and will not damage the nail. When the nail is smooth to the touch, apply the color again and a new top coat.

To keep your nails looking great and making your manicure last longer, you should be wearing cotton lined rubber gloves.

Apply moisturizers to nails often and frequently. In the Winter months use gloves and when applying new polish, wait a day to allow the nail to breath before any treatment.

Question the manufactures claims. If a nail product claims to nourish or condition the nail, you must ask how. A nail, like hair is dead tissues that you can not add moisture to. No matter what the claims are, whether it be added vitamins, minerals or proteins the basic structure of our nails simply will not allow this to claim to be true. Any product can provide superficial strength to a soft nail, and some can add microscopic fibers to strengthen, but as soon as the polish is taken off. The nail will be just as soft as it was to begin with.

Now, for the testing of the manufactures: The Prices of polish range from $1.00 to $15.00. The Drying times for most were about 4 minutes per layer, the best being Cutex and the slowest being Wet n Wild, Chanel and Maybelline. Easy of application and evenness was universal. In regards to opaqueness of product, Cutex is the winner and Maybelline applied just fairly. Where chipping is concerned, and remember each color was worn for four days, with one day of breathing time between manufactures. Avon, Estee Lauder, Wet n Wild and Chanel were the best in endurance, and Cutex and Maybelline were the first to beginning chipping. Overall wear of the products: none were excellent, but all were at least very good to so so, th eonly two that were not as durable were Cutex and Maybelline long wear color.

So, the next time you decide you simply cannot live without your nails being polished, remember that any product will do in a pinch. Now, I realize that most transgendered people do not have the opportunity to wear polish for long periods. But, be that as it may, one still needs to use common sense in it application. Meaning, give yourself enough time to enjoy the moment, as time is the answer to all questions of how and why when it comes to making one' self beautiful.

This is CDtips asking for your questions, so we can all get the right answers. Love, Lynda

Send your questions to CDtips@aol.com.
The most frequently asked questions will be answered here on the website.